Eating in migration: affections, knowledge, memories, and adaptations
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.29147/revhosp.v22.1255Keywords:
food, migration, gustatory memories, identity, social mediationAbstract
This study celebrates the knowledge, flavors, memories, and eating practices in migratory contexts, investigating how food serves as a cultural value and an affective mediation space. The research was conducted with current and former students of the Federal University for Latin American Integration (UNILA) who migrated to Foz do Iguaçu, a city in the tri-border region of Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay, and shared their stories through gustatory memories. Using Orlando Fals Borda's Participatory Action Research (PAR) methodology, the study incorporates interviews, experience exchanges, and recipe records that express knowledge, memories, and cultural identities. The results are presented in two dimensions: the Poetics of Recipes, which gathers narratives, stories, and memories associated with food; and interview analyses, which discuss the dishes in relation to cultural roots, the ingredients accompanying migration, and dietary adaptations in the new territory. A Recipe Book emerged from this process, which, in addition to recording preparations, reflects the participants' experiences, affections, and popular knowledge. Ultimately, the study demonstrates how food functions as a cultural bridge, an element of identity preservation, and a space of social mediation, revealing the symbolic and affective richness of eating practices in migratory trajectories.
Downloads
References
Almeida, T. P. de. (2014). Migração internacional feminina: trajetórias entre Bolívia, Paraguai, Peru e Brasil. In S. Hirano & M. L. T. Carneiro (Orgs.), Histórias migrantes: Um mosaico de nacionalidades e múltiplas culturas (pp. 205–232). Humanitas; FAPESP.
Alvarez, M. (2002). La cocina como patrimonio (in)tangible. In I. Maronese (Org.), Primeras jornadas de patrimonio gastronómico (p. 11). CPPHC-CABA.
Alves, R. (1995). Aprendendo das cozinheiras. In R. Alves, Estórias de quem gosta de ensinar – O fim dos vestibulares. Ars Poética.
Alves, R. (2010). A cozinha. Correio Popular.
Borda, O. F. (1999). Orígenes universales y retos actuales de la IAP. Análisis Político, (38), 73–90.
Campana, I. de C. (2011). Segurança e migrações na tríplice fronteira (Trabalho de Conclusão de Curso). Universidade de Brasília, Instituto de Relações Internacionais, Brasília, Brasil.
Cárdenas, L. O. G., & Webber, M. A. (2018). Quando "o outro" está em casa: Mobilidade Guarani na tríplice fronteira entre Argentina, Brasil e Paraguai. Iberoamérica Social: Revista-red de Estudios Sociales, (IX), 39–54.
Corner, D. M. R. (2014). A cozinha étnica espanhola nos restaurantes de São Paulo. In S. Hirano & M. L. T. Carneiro (Orgs.), Histórias migrantes: Um mosaico de nacionalidades e múltiplas culturas (pp. 261–287). Humanitas, FAPESP.
DaMatta, R. (1986). O que faz o Brasil, Brasil? Rocco.
Instituto Brasileiro de Geografia e Estatística. (2022). Censo demográfico: 2022. https://www.ibge.gov.br/cidades-e-estados/pr/foz-do-iguacu.html
Maciel, M. E. (2005). Olhares antropológicos sobre a alimentação: Identidade cultural e alimentação. In A. M. Canesqui & ; R. W. D. Garcia. Antropologia e nutrição: Um diálogo possível (pp. 49–55). Editora Fiocruz. DOI: https://doi.org/10.7476/9788575413876.0003
Montanari, M. (2008). Comida como Cultura. Editora Senac São Paulo.
Santos, C. R. A. (2011). A comida como lugar de história: As dimensões do gosto. História: Questões & Debates, 54(1). DOI: https://doi.org/10.5380/his.v54i1.25760
Solans, A. M. (2014). Alimentación y mujeres migrantes en Buenos Aires, Argentina: Tradiciones, recreaciones y tensiones a la hora de comer. Revista Colombiana de Antropología, 50(2), 119–139. DOI: https://doi.org/10.22380/2539472X49
Stefanutti, P., Gregory, V., & Klauck, S. (2018). Memórias gustativas: Uma discussão de memória social e identidade. Revista Memória em Rede, 10(18), 128–145. DOI: https://doi.org/10.15210/rmr.v10i18.11735
Valdés, G. (1996). Puentes y fronteras. Bilingual Press.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2025 Mariana Gomes de Oliveira, Angélica Moreno Usaquin
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
I herewith declare that I authorize the publication of the enclosed paper by Revista Hospitalidade and it will be labeled as “Open Access” and licensed by the respective authors in accordance with the Creative Commons Attribution (CC-BY) license, without period limitation. The access to the paper will be open and free. access, for an indeterminate period and as unpaid and my collaboration is royalty-free. I declare also that this is an original work that has not been previously published, it has been written by the stated authors, and third-party sources were duly referenced when necessary. I further declare that this work does not infringe the copyright or property right of another and I am aware of publisher´s policy with regards to plagiarism, that will consist in immediate withdrawal of the article. Authors retain the copyright and grant the journal the right of publishing it as original work, i.e. guaranteeing that it has not been previously published, and now it is licensed under “Creative Commons Attribution” License which allows sharing the work with the condition of both authors and journal being duly referenced.
